How to make a CoVID-19 Mask 2.0

So, I have already given a tutorial on how to make a CoVID-19 mask, which you can find here. But after thinking about it, and looking back through my inventory, I thought up a new design. Like the other one, it is reversible, reusable, washable, uses cotton and flannel, and has a conformable nose bridge wire. However, instead of having the ties (around the back of the head or around the ears), this one uses elastic around the ears. This may be a better design since elastic is easier to deal with at times than ties. Plus, the sides are gathered with elastic instead of pleating. Also, the biggest advantage I found is that once you get the hang of them, these can be made in half the time of the other ones. 

So, first of all, I made two sizes. One is made from 8”x8” squares. This is for L/XL heads. The other size is 6”x8” and this fits children and S/M heads. I personally can wear the S/M version and my head is about 21” around if that gives you some idea. 

I ran out of the chenille wire from before, so I bought a back of pipe cleaners at Dollar Tree. There are 45 in a pack. They are 12” long, so I cut them into 4” pieces. These are for the nose bridge wire.

The first step is to use a zig-zag stitch and sew the pipe cleaners to the wrong side of the cotton fabric. Center them at the top and down about 1/2”. (If you are making a 6”x8” size, you will sew this to one of the 6” ends). I used a button hole foot because it has a groove on the bottom of the foot that guided the pipe cleaner through and kept it straight.

This is what it looks like from both sides when you are done.

Next, cut two short lengths of elastic. I cut them 8” long, but you may want to test this out yourself. Make one as practice to see if it’s the right size for your head. 

You will pin these between the right sides of flannel and cotton fabric on both of the longer 8” sides. Pin them like you see below. I’ve opened the layers to show you what it looks like between the layers.

So once you have the elastic pinned into the seams of both of the longer sides, you just sew up all four sides, leaving an opening on one side to turn it right-side-out. I left this opening on a short side which was opposite the nose bridge wire. 

So this is a little hard to describe. You want to tack down one end of elastic that will run down both of the longer sides. Don’t pre-cut this elastic. When turned right-side-out, this is what will create the gathering on the sides of the face. So, tack it down like this....

Then, sew down that longer side, and as you turn to sew down the other shorter side, pull the elastic tight. This requires some skills. You need to pull the elastic tight with both hands. Then, place the fingers of your right hand on top of the elastic and on either side of the presser foot. Let go of the elastic in your left hand, and release your presser foot. Then sew really quickly across the elastic. I back stitch over the elastic to make sure it holds. Then, once it is secure, you can cut this elastic. You will do this on both of the longer sides.

This is what it looks like inside-out.

And this is what it looks like right-side-out. Make sure you really push the corners out. You have one step left after this.

Again, this is going to take some skills. So, basically all you are going to do is to sew a big square around everything again. However, you need both hands and your wits about you. I start on the side with the hole. I sew up that side, stopping about 3/4” from the edge. 

Then, when you come to that first elastic side, turn the corner and put the presser foot back down. Again, this requires both hands. Hold the fabric under the foot in place. . .

And then pull the inside elastic tight. Using both hands, guide the fabric down as you sew. Make sure you hold the fabric at the top and bottom and guide it through. Don’t just pull it through, because you will break your needle. This will not be perfect, and that’s okay. You are just creating a channel for the inside elastic so that the fabric will lay correctly against your face.

When you sew up that last side, be sure to back stitch to tack everything in place.

So this mannequin is pretty small, but this is the S/M one. 

And this is the L/XL one. You can see from the one above and below that they are reversible. Make sure you decide AHEAD OF TIME which side you want against your face. If you switch the sides halfway through the day, you’ve just negated the entire reason for wearing the mask!!

If for some reason your mask is too big or you just don’t want to wear it behind your ears, you can put a paper clip behind your head and attach it that way.

The End!

How to Make a CoVID-19 Reusable Washable Homemade Mask

I have really been inspired by rewatching the movie “Superman I.” (In fact, I wrote about it along with nine other ideas I bet you’ve never heard of on how to deal with this pandemic. You can read it here.) I have been trying to think of way to be a “Superman” during this pandemic, but it’s not easy!

My husband and I have really been trying to think of something we can do to help while maintaining good social distancing protocols. He suggested that we start calling everyone on our contact list to check in on them. I thought that was a great idea. It keeps infections from spreading, but it shows people you care.

I, on the other hand, had this really ambitious idea to make a ton of face masks. They don’t seem too hard to make, and I thought I could crank out 40-50 in a couple of hours.

Well, I was definitely wrong about my ambitions. It took me all day Saturday to crank out a paltry dozen. Like, literally all day!

Seriously, each one takes me about 30 minutes. And I work fast! It took at least an hour to cut all my fabric and then another six hours to make the twelve I made. So, I decided that since it’s not feasible for me to make masks for everyone I know and love. And since sitting at my machine for hours on end kills my back. And since I have to tear up my work-from-home office every time I want to get to my sewing machine, and then put it back together for work the next day. And especially when everyone else seems just to be reading books, watching movies, and “Netflix and Chill”-ing. And since people tend to ask me to make them things that they never end up using. 

I thought: Why am I going to kill myself making a million masks???

I decided that we would distribute the ones I made among our neighbors. Besides, this cuts down on the social contact of driving around to deliver masks to everyone. And it creates a sense of community around your home. 

If we all made masks or bought toilet paper or delivered groceries to the three to five people we live around, this whole pandemic would be a lot nicer and more manageable. Plus, this sort of help is a lot more sustainable versus trying to make a million masks for everyone you know!

Then, I decided I would write a mask tutorial for everyone else. You really need to learn how to sew, and you’ve got a ton of time on your hands if you’re not working. Here’s another reason it’s better for you to make your own masks: Liability. No one knows who has this CoVID-19 and who doesn’t. What happens if I make you a mask and then you get coronavirus from me? I’m not gonna play that game. Incidentally, if you are ordering a homemade mask from anyone, you need to make sure that you wash it and let it thoroughly dry before you wear it. However, if you make it yourself from your own fabric, you don’t have to worry about that at all!

So, I’m just going to warn you. This isn’t the easiest tutorial out there. I am just going to show you my process, in case you are interested. My method uses bias tape, because I wanted to use what I have already and I have a lot of bias tape. If you don’t know what bias tape is, then clearly, you need to look for a different tutorial. (Google: “Easy mask tutorial”) I will say that my version can be washed and tumble dried. (Although, line dry is better as tumble drying can strip the filtering of the fabric over time.)

On the bright side: Even if you are a terrible sewer and are really sloppy, that’s fine! These don’t have to be perfect. They just have to be functional, so give yourself some grace.

Here’s what I used: A Ralph Lauren bed sheet, white cotton, baby blanket flannel, chenille wire (pipe cleaners), and bias tape.

So I read from another tutorial that an 8”x8” square is good for adults and 7”x6” is good for children. I cut the fabric accordingly.

Originally, I made these three-ply—wanting to be as safe as possible. However, I think as long as you have a good quality cotton and a layer of flannel, you should be okay. All the sources I read said these were the best fabrics to use. You do have to actually breathe through them! So, maybe don’t make too many layers.

Note: When wearing face masks, you need to limit your movement. Because they constrict your air flow, you will get winded if you try to run or move too quickly with one on.

So fold the top down approximately 1 1/2” and pin it.

Make another fold and pin that too. I’m sorry. I don’t use exact measurements. I just eyeball it and make it look like this each time.

Then, I pinned some bias tape to the edge.

After I sewed that down, I folded the bias tape in half. (Most bias tape comes prefolded, so you probably won’t have to do this.)

Then, I folded the edge of the tape to the middle crease I’d just made.

Then, I flipped the bias tape around the mask’s edge and pinned it in place.

I stitched in the ditch, but you could also top stitch if you want. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

So this is what both edges looked like bound in the bias tape.

Now, I had to sew in a little pocket at the top to put in the chenille wire. (This is so you can adjust the mask over your nose.) Start the pocket about 1 1/2” from the side edge. Sew down about 3/4” and then across and back up. Look at the picture after this one to see what that looks like. 

This is what the little pocket looks like when you are done.

Then, I measured how much chenille wire I needed against the pocket.

My chenille wire is really thick and fuzzy for some reason. Most pipe cleaners are a lot thinner. You probably will never have to do this step to cut it down. However, I wanted to use what I already had versus running to the store.

After trimming the wire, I folded the ends over to keep them from poking out of the mask.

Then, I placed the wire into the pocket.

Then, I stitched it in place. Again this doesn’t have to look nice. You just want a simple stitch to keep the wire from popping out.

Sorry that the picture is sideways, but you can see the wire is in place.

Next, I cut two approximately 22” piece of the bias tape. I didn’t formally measure these pieces. I just  used my arm as a measurement.

Then, I folded both pieces in half and finger pressed a crease.

I matched the crease to the middle of the mask.

And then I pinned each piece—one to the top and one to the bottom of the mask.

After stitching them in place, I folded the bias tape in half lengthwise and finger pressed them.

Then, I folded the edges into the middle crease, beginning with the middle of the mask.

Then, I flipped it over the edge.

And I pinned it in place.

Then, I just worked my way from the middle out to the outer ends and pinned as I went.

This is the most difficult part, but once you get all your pins in, it’s straight shooting from here and you’re done!

The finished mask.

So I made the straps long so that they can be worn one of two ways.

This first way is tied around back.

But not all heads are created equal, and some people don’t like them tied behind their heads.

In that event, you can just tie the ties in loops like this and hang them off your ears. If you don’t like the bows, you can either make the straps shorter to begin with or you can cut them down once you get them how you want them.

Happy sewing!

The End!