De-Fashioning: Updating a Moto Jacket DIY

I haven't done a post in a while. This doesn't mean I have been sewing. It just means that I don't think to take pictures as I'm sewing!

So...I made sure to document this one.

Anyways....

You know how moto jackets used to look like this a few years ago? The double collar was huge. Not so much any more. Especially on this red jacket. I have small shoulders and the points and angles were just way too overwhelming.

So decided that I would tone it down a bit by taking out the neck part of the collar. I just went into the seam and ripped the whole seam out along the neck.

I took the neck collar out.

Then, I just pinned the neck seam back together and sewed it down.

Because the front flaps were top-stitched, I went ahead and top-stitched around the whole neck seam to make it uniform.

And, there you go! Really easy. I have to say the collar lays a lot better now, besides the fact that this is a more modern silhouette. 

Try this on that jacket that you have in your "give away" pile and see if it works for you! (Depending on how your jacket is constructed, you may be able to just cut the neck part out without taking the whole thing apart and resewing it!)

The End!

"The One Sleep Eyemask to Rule Them All" 2.0 - New and Improved!

So, about four and a half years ago (has it really been that long??...Gosh, I'm old...), I made a pattern for what I deemed "The One Eyemask to Rule Them All." You can find it by clicking ---> here. (Actually, you need to click there if you want to try this project, b/c it includes the pattern I used. And it's free.) 

Anyways, if you read that last post, you will learn that I am a really strange sleeper. I CANNOT sleep with any light nor sounds of any kind. I also...prefer to have my ears covered. I know. It's weird. Guess what. It's okay. I fixed the problem by buying an ear-covering-eye-mask in Korea when I lived there years ago. So...I'm not the only one! Someone else has this problem too!

Anyways, all that to say...my former mask--patterned after the Korean mask--was alright, but fell short in one major area: I woke up every morning with deep creases on my face made from the red binding I'd added around the outer seam.

Okay...so...why it took me four years to revamp it, I don't know, but anyways, the point is I did it, so without further ado, let's get to the new project.

To rid myself of the weird creases every morning, I decided to choose 100% silk satin. Silk has long been lauded as a luxury fabric and for good reason. Not only is is durable while being lightweight and aesthetically beautiful, it also is a great surface on which to sleep. (Remember when I made that silk satin pillow case? No? Well, click --> here then.) Anyways, I made a silk pillow case from an old prom dress that I never wore and couldn't sell online. I've been sleeping on it every night since I made it, and it's fantastic. Best pillowcase ever! My hair is far less frizzy with less breakage and I have fewer breakouts, just to name two reasons for why I am such a believer in sleeping on a silk surface.

A word about 100% silk satin. It's a luxury fabric. That means if you go to the fabric store to try to track it down, you are going to pay a pretty penny for a tiny bit of it. Instead of that mess, consider finding an article of silk satin clothing from the thrift store. The top below is a tunic that I actually bought on sale at a retail store, but it doesn't fit me very well. I had tried to sell it on Poshmark. It sat there for about a year with no takers, so I gave up and decided to repurpose it for my sleeping purposes. I'm glad I did. (You can see that I already cut a sleeping mask out of the bottom hem at the start of this project. That's because I wanted to trial run this project before promoting it to make sure it actually worked. Boy am I glad I cut that stupid shirt up! I love my eye mask! So...this project is really my making a few more masks that I can alternate when one of them has been washed and is hanging to dry.)

Okay...so...for reals this time, let's talk about the project and how you might replicate it.

You need: silk satin (if you can't find 100% silk satin, try just 100% non-satin silk. If you can't find 100% non-satin silk, try a polyester satin. It's not as good, but it's better than moisture-stripping cotton.). You also need black-out fabric. I used extra curtain fabric. It doesn't have to be curtain fabric, but curtain fabric is really really good for this because it is very opaque. You can easily test fabric by holding it up to the light. If it doesn't allow light to pass through, use it!

You also need: elastic, Velcro, glass beads (substitutes will be mentioned later), and....a stapler!

First, cut out both fabrics using the pattern in the link I already gave you at the top of this post. You need to add a seam allowance around it. I eyeballed about 1/4" around. You can see in the pictures below.

Then, with the right sides of both fabrics together, pin them.

Cut a two lengths of wide-ish elastic. (There are four in this picture because I actually made two eye masks at once.) These are roughly 6 inches long.

Open the sides of your pinned mask and stick the elastic in. (You can actually do this before you pin the fabric together in the first place.)

Then, stitch around. Make sure to leave an opening at the top middle of your mask so you can turn it right-side out. The picture below shows me back stitching over the elastic. I did this to assure the elastic was secure in the side seam.

Then, cut little notches around the curviest parts of the seam. This helps it lay better when it's right-side out.

Turn the mask right-side out.

Okay, first of all, see how there is an opening at the top middle of the mask? Make sure it's the TOP of the mask you leave the opening in and not the bottom. 

Okay, so get your pattern back out and notice where the lines are drawn. This sections off the "ear" parts from the "eye" part.  Put pins on either end of that line.

Then, just stitch straight from one pin to the opposite pin.

Then, turn it upside down and sew about a 1 to 1 1/2" line straight up the middle. This is where the mask will hit your nose and nose bridge.

Turn it back around and measure about 1 to 1 1/2" out and above the nose line to make eye lines. You may want to actually hold the mask to your face (BEFORE PINNING!!!) to see where your eyes hit in relation to the nose line. 

Then, stitch roughly 1 inch lines.

Okay, so now let's discuss filler options. You know how fancy spas have those eye masks that have fancy things in them like lavender and seeds and whatnot? So...you can totally use lavender...or rice...or seeds...or whatever. I used glass beads and here's why: Because I wanted to be able to throw my masks in the wash! Glass beads have a nice weight to them, so you get that spa-like feel, but you can also wash your mask in your weekly laundry and it won't get gross bacteria buildup or...mold! Ick!

A word about glass beads: They are awesome, but I do have to say that glass retains a colder room temperature than...say...cotton or lavender or other fillers. So, it's really nice to put a glass bead-filled eye mask on in summer. It's very refreshing. However, right now it is winter and so I will say, it takes a few minutes against my skin for the glass beads to stop being so dang cold. If you are a light sleeper, this can rob you of those first crucial moments when you are trying to fall asleep, so...what I do: I read the Bible before falling asleep. While I'm reading, I put the eye mask under my body, so it can heat up for a few minutes. Then, when I put it on my face, it's not so jarringly cold and it feels quite nice.

Okay, so, as I said, I made two masks at once. I actually tried to fill the other one with poly-fill stuffing. Well, after I filled it, I held it up to my face, and guess what...I could still see light peeking through the bottom. When I held the glass-filled one up, I could manipulate the beads to block all the light out. Also, the fact that the beads have weight keeps the fabric down, so less light comes through....Suffice to say, I pulled all the poly-fill out and filled the second mask with beads as well. 

If poly-fill works better for you, though, go ahead and use it. Use whatever filler you want.

Then, sew the top "filling" gap up.

Okay, so now comes the adding of the Velcro. Almost all Velcro you buy nowadays comes with a sticky backing. I'm not sure why companies think this is a good idea. First of all, sticky back Velcro is not permanent, no matter how sticky it is. It comes off in just a few washings. Furthermore--and if you sew at all, you will hear me on this--it's SUPER annoying to sew through! It gums up your sewing machine and the gum NEVER comes off your needle! Then you try to hand sew it, and guess what...same problem: You have to throw your needle away because it's covered in gum.

I am going to save you a ton of time and heartache with a simple hack.

First of all, take the strip off the backing...

Then, fold the edge of the elastic down toward the side that will receive the Velcro.

Stick the Velcro on over that fold...

Then, COMPLETELY BYPASS THE SEWING and use a stapler!

That's right! I said a stapler! Staple it just like I have it below and your mask is done! No messed up sewing machines. No unsalvageable needles. It's permanent, washable, and it takes three seconds! 

So here is the finished mask. Hurray for light/cold ears/crease-free sleeping!

The End!

An EVEN EASIER Moto Jacket Fix!

So...still Memorial Day...still going through photos.

Found an EVEN EASIER moto jacket fix than my last post!

Here it is!

Problem: Lapels of collar sticking up with no way to lie flat.

Solution: sticky velcro! No sewing required!

I cut off two small squares of both sides of velcro. I peeled off the sticky backs. . .

Stuck the whole thing on the back of each lapel. . .

Peeled off the other side. . .

And stuck it down to the jacket.

This way the lapels stay down when you want them to. . .

And if you need them to go up, you will have these unsightly black squares, but. . .

You are probably going to wear it this way anyway!

(And if you need to zip the zipper up all the way, you can always go back to my other fix.)

(Obviously, I took these pictures back at Christmas!!!)

The End!

An Easy Way to Fix a Cheap Moto Jacket

It's Memorial Day. It's raining. My husband and I are finalizing plans for a trip to Scotland later this year, and so I am going through an old SD camera card. I came across some pictures of a blog post I never posted...so here it is!

This may never happen to you, but it may give you an idea for something else. But basically, here was my predicament: I had bought the awesome metallic red moto jacket you see below. . .

It was really cool, except for one horrible flaw: When it wasn't zipped up (like the photo above) the lapels stuck out like this:

Here is a side view. See how the collar part sticks up? Most moto jackets snap down flat, but I guess the manufacturer didn't think that detail was important.

This is what I wanted the jacket collar to do. Lie down flat.

Okay, so here's what you can do in this situation--especially if you don't have a grommet/snap tool or at least don't have one big enough.

First, I made a mark where the male part of the snap should have been. I did this on both sides.

Then, I found another jacket at a thrift store that had snaps the same size.

Perfect! Two male ends of snaps the same size as my red jacket!

I cut around each snap leaving a margin.

I didn't want the margin to be blue b/c that would conflict with the red jacket, so I "painted" them black with a Sharpie.

I glued each spot with super glue.

Then, I glued the back of each snap.

And pressed each male end into place.

I let them set for a second. Gluing them was not the fix. It was just to keep each piece in place.

With each snap in place, I took a threaded needle and then sewed them into place to assure they wouldn't come apart.

Now the jacket lies open like a normal moto jacket!

And if I want to zip the jacket all the way up, I just have to unsnap the lapels.

The End!