Tailoring: Simple Stripe Seam Match-Up

I covered this topic in a previous post, but anyways, here it is again!

I bought this green sweater at the thrift store. I love the colors, but it was a bit big across the bust. No problem. Usually, I try a shirt/sweater on, look in a mirror, and pinch around the excess to see how much I need to take something in. I did that for this sweater, however, I needed to do an extra step if I wanted the stripes to match up.

Okay, this really only works if the garment you are tailoring has stripes that ALREADY match up, or almost match up, at the seams. If the stripes are way off to begin with, trying to force them to match up will result in a bunched up mess.

Also, I know I usually tailor things around the armpit: the sleeve and the bust area. That's how I'm built. This may not be where you need to tailor. Maybe you have smaller hips and a larger bust. So for you, you would pin around the hip area. Same principle, just a different area. You can do this anywhere you need to.

So here is how you do it. First put a pin at the edge of the stripe from the top layer down into the bottom layer.

Now, lift up the seam and see if the pin is sticking through the edge of the stripe on the other side. This one magically was, so I didn't need to adjust anything.

Then, with the seam lifted, stick the pin back into the bottom layer and through to the top following the same stripe, like this.

Now flip the seam back down and. . .See?! A problem! See how the pin is coming up through the stripe instead of at the edge of the stripe? How to fix: Pick up JUST the top layer off the point of the pin. . .

And gently adjust it so that the pin is now sticking through at the edge of the stripe.

Here are a series of pins from the top. . .

And here are the same pins from the other side. They all match up perfectly from both sides.

Then, sew over the pins. Don't pull them out until you actually sew over each pin. Keep those stripes held in place until the last possible second!

Ta da! You can see a slight discrepancy near the armpit, but. . .who's gonna look that close? Only a very creepy weirdo with no life. 

Looks good enough in my book! You're done. Now, go work on your next project!

The End!

How to Fix: When Stripes Don't Match Up on a Garment

I bought this crazy dress at Rosewholesale.com...which you can find here if you like it as much as I did. 

However, this site is from China and it takes a while to get your merchandise...Also, because they are mass-made, you get little problems like this one. (Notice that the right-hand side dart stripes don't match up.)

Also, if you look along the bottom of the stripes, you will see that the bottom black stripe is kinda wonky as well. No matter. We can fix both problems!

First, take out the seam along the bottom of the stripes. . .

Then, take out the dart in question.

Okay, in order for the stripes to match up, fold the fabric and then pin the stripes. . .

Making sure that they match up from both sides. Then sew up the dart.

Next, I needed to fix the bottom stripe, so I pulled it down enough to make it symmetrical.

There! Both problems solved!

The sleeves were also really large (as in big around), so I tailored those in a bit...which I have ton a billion other times on these posts, so I didn't bore you with how to do that part.

The End!

Refashioning: Turning a Dated Silk Dress into Modern Separates

I love this one.

I found this bizarre 100% silk dress at Good will. So much going on! Yet. . .It had great potential. Especially because of what modern designers are doing on the runways these days.

A note: It is actually a bold green and black in real life. My camera hates green.

So, this is the silhouette I saw in my head when I saw the dress, and I knew the dress had potential. (This outfit is Fendi.)

Here are some of those crazy modern patterns I was talking about. (These are Tom Ford.)

This one is from Pinterest, and I don't know the designer, but. . .let's be honest. They are all doing this sort of thing right now.

Back to the dress at hand. I loved the color. I loved the crazy pattern, and I loved the placement of the pattern with the florals at the extreme ends of the garment. Shoulder detail has been really big for about the past seven years and continues to be a "thing," so I knew this project was going to work.

Something else cool about the dress is if you look at the fabric in certain light, you can see that the fabric is actually a jacquard with satin polka dots embedded in the weave. So 60's throw back!

I found a shirt that I sort of wanted to copy as far as length and sizing and threw it on top to see what I had to work with.

I cut the weird mermaid skirt off.

I folded the top hem over twice and, using a seam gauge (my new favorite thing), I ironed the hem to make a casing.

Here I have pinned the casing.

Sewing from the right side, I stitched in the ditch all around, leaving space between these two pins in the middle back.

Into the opening, I inserted elastic with a safety pin on the end. (I actually bought two bodkins off eBay, but couldn't find either one! Man. . .I wanted to be so official too. Oh well. Safety pins work!)

Making sure the elastic lay flat, I stitched it together.

To distinguish the middle back (in lieu of a tag), I sewed a little ribbon bow.

The skirt: Done!

Now for the top.

The first step was to seam rip out the zipper.

Then, I pinned up the middle back seam and stitched it.

I left a keyhole at the top of the middle back so I would be able to get the shirt up over my head. I also sewed in a little hook and eye clasp.

I cut the sleeves off, folded the top in half, pinned the side and shoulder seams together, and smoothed out the wrinkles.

Using the other shirt as a guide. . .well. . .you know.

I stitched up the side seams (with a straight stitch and then going back over the sides with a zig zag), stitched the arms closed, and then sewed the sleeves to the bodice.

To hem the top, I double folded the hem at the bottom (making sure that the back hung just a tad lower than the front). . .

. . .and the bottom of each sleeve.

Okay, time for a rant. 

I love my Husqvarna. Everyone who knows I sew, knows I love my sewing machine. 

However:

Whoever designed the blind stitching capabilities of this machine. . .

Should be shot.

It's totally backwards from what it should be. See how I had to shove the entire garment up into the inside of the machine in order to do sew the blind stitch??? Also, I had to pin the garment backwards too, which is really annoying.

I'm sure there's some kind of "good reason" for this, but. . .

It's stupid.

End of rant.

The finished shirt! Yay!

Okay, do you notice how the shirt gently nips in at the waist? There are no darts, and the side seams are actually pretty straight. Wanna know how I did it?

If you look closely, you can see that the back seam is curved slightly.

This is easier to see when the shirt is inside out. You can see I'm pointing at the part of the seam that dips in. That part lies against the small of the back.

And here is a close up. Taking a shirt in from the middle back seam, rather than the side seams, looks so much more professional and so much less "amateur hour."

Here is the skirt. I ironed it for you.

And the completed outfit! So modern and cute!

And because we all love before and afters, here it is:

The End!